I went to explore Stockholm Old Town one morning in April. I wanted pictures of Old Town with the sunlight coming in from the east. A walk through Old Town is a significant part of the Stockholm Inner City Tour I am offering this summer. I wanted more pictures to promote the tour. Plus maybe I could discover new places to show? I think I succeeded in both.
Sun rises at 5 am this time of year in Stockholm but I wasn't aiming for the sunrise. Just the hour or two before everyone else takes to the streets.
When travelling I always enjoy exploring a new city in the morning. Get out there an hour or two before everyone else and take in the freshness as night becomes day. The sun low in the sky, streets empty except for the occasional early commuter. Shop owners preparing their shops for the day.
I checked the weather forecast. Sunny but windy. So no perfect reflections in the water. But fluffy little clouds racing over the sky. That would do!
I started at the Royal Garden and made my way to Skeppsholmen, the island east of Old Town. From here I could get a nice view of Skeppsbron. The sea front once bustling with sails from distant shores, now home of tour boats taking tourists to explore the archipelago.
Next I made my way over the King's Bridge into Old Town.
The Royal Palace
The Royal Palace sits at the north eastern corner of Old Town. The fortress that guarded the waterway into Lake Mälaren gave way to the majestic and monumental palace in the 18th century. Built in baroque style by Nicodemus Tessin, it manages to be by far the largest building in Old Town while at the same time fitting in perfectly. It sits there with silent grandeur.
I braved the morning traffic and took some shots of the eastern facade.
Scenic streets and narrow alleys
Stockholm Old Town is famous for its scenic streets and narrow alleys. The main shopping street is bustling with tourists, but venture a little further up the hill and you find calm and idyllic town scapes to explore, especially on a Sunday morning. The iconic street lamps are from 1853.
The mortality rate in Stockholm Old Town was the highest in all of Europe in the 19th century. Prominent voices blamed the bad air of the narrow streets and wanted to tear it all down. Only because of the price tag, less radical solutions were chosen. What really improved life in the Old Town was plumbing, central heating and inlaid water. And a few careful demolitions opening up green oases between the town houses.
Most people including me traverse Old Town along Västerlånggatan, the main shopping street. This time I followed the parallel higher road Prästgatan. The streets follow what once a medieval city wall.
The rune stone and the narrowest alley in Stockholm
I made my way to the narrowest alley in Stockholm, Mårten Trotzigs Gränd. It's a public road less than a meter wide at its narrowest point. These days it is closed at night to discourage spray can artists and on this spring morning it greeted me fresh, clean and empty and ready for yours truly to explore. With gates at both ends it's easy to overlook so pay attention or you will miss it.
Another sight that casual passersby may fail to notice is the rune stone in the wall at Prästgatan. One of three rune stones found in Old Town, it's the only one remaining.
No vikings lived in Old Town. It wasn't until the 13th century that the islands upon which Old Town is built, rose above sea level. Instead, Birka further west was the trade centre of the Viking Age. Despite its name, Old Town isn't that old!
Riddarholmen
While tourists flock the narrow streets of Old Town in the summer, the smaller island Riddarholmen to the west is not at all crowded. The three lane freeway that cuts through Old Town scares the casual explorer away.
Riddarholmen has its own majestic charm and I find it worth exploring. Here you will meet Birger Jarl, the founder of Stockholm in between 17th century palaces built by prominent nobles.
In Catholic times, the Franciscan order had a monastery on Riddarholmen. Their church, Riddarholmen Church with the 19th century iron spire, was built in the late 1200s. The church is the last resting place of Swedish monarchs and aristocracy, including Gustav II Adolf and Karl XII. It is currently undergoing renovation but open to the public in summer.
As the final stop on my tour of Stockholm Inner City, I have chosen Evert Taubes Terrass. Overlooking Lake Mälaren, Sweden's third largest lake and with a view of the Stockholm City Hall, it is a calm place to relax and reflect. Named after Swedish troubadour Evert Taube (1890-1976).
I ended my morning walk with Swedish Fika: A cinnamon bun and a cappuccino at Cafe Bellman.
Happy to show you around when you come by.